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Do you find that DLED 36's are bright enough for most stages? Say 16' x 24'. I know Chauvet makes a different lens for the Colorado series but it's expensive.
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Depends on what they are fighting against. When I used them for a back wash on the set for Assassins, they were fine. In dark bars, they are also fine when using other LEDs, 250w movers, 500w\600w pars and/or S4 Pars lamped 575w or Opti Pars lamped 575w. Generally, all these things are back, side, and/or ground effects and the DLED36s light the stage just fine from the front.
When pitting them against S4 lekos from anything more then 20-25', forget it. No lenses mean you can't get the beams narrow enough to punch like the S4s can. At that point I start looking at 26 degree lenses. The 39 degree angle of the DLED36 is to spread out which causes a lower intensity and also no control, nor a way to mount barn doors on them like their Coemar cousins to get control. Now if you are trying to do a bigger stage with less from that distance, maybe. But I at that point would not use the DLED36s in favor of some S4 lekos, cheaper to rent means more for the money. If they had the money, I might use them, though would look more towards the DLED108 at that point for more punch over the same area. |
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I get what your saying. The problem I am running into now is if I should just go with a S4 par for the front wash lighting. If I do this I still need an LED light to add color when the S4's are off...this looks great when the singers aren't singing...you don't want them lit with a bright wash but you don't want them in the dark either. I wanted to find one fixture per side that would give me color and a good white wash. I bought the DLED 36WA but it doesn't give me a very good white. I thought about a CMY Zoom 250 but I don't know if it is going to give me enough output. I would love to go the LED route but I really feel like I am going to need a fixture that has RGB, and white and amber LED's. The only thing that I have found is the Martin Stagebar. What would you use to get really good white wash's and colors in the same fixture? Keep in mind it has to mount on a 2" aluminum bar on an Applied crank lift (the CMY Zoom's would make the bar much heavier on one side compare to the DLED 36's). Thanks for all of your input, I really appreciate it!
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Have you ever tried tricking the LEDs into the white you want? What I mean is, if I want a more 3200k white, I drop out some blue and a little green and run the red full up. If I want a more 5600k, I drop some red out.
This lowers the total output of the light in 'white'. However, it gets me what I want out of the LEDs without the need for white and amber LEDs. More LEDs means more money as well as a larger unit physically. One of the great advantages to LEDs is that they are small yet powerful. Start having RGBWA LEDs, and you take away the small part. It also means the need for more control channels, which sometimes isn't a problem and sometimes is. |
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I have played with the color temp using the parameters that you described. It just doesn't seem to work as well as an S4 with a "flesh" tone gel. I thought the ambers might get me there, but I have no real world experience with them. Have you ever worked with a CMY Zoom 250? Do you think this would be brighter the the DLED 108IP?
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Doubtful. If the Impression run about 180w worth of LEDs can go color for color to a 575w discharge, I think the DLED108 will edge out over a 250w discharge.
250/575=.43; 108/180=.6. I know the math isn't as simple as that thanks to differences in the color temperatures of the discharge lamps, but it gets the general idea across. The DLED108 in theory will be about 20% brighter color for color over the 250w. Things to remember about the higher color temperature of the 250w lamp is that it won't do reds and ambers as well as the LEDs. It will be best at doing blues since the temperature will be blue in nature. This message has been edited. Last edited by: SerraAva, |
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