If you want the fans on the Roller Scans to stay on, you need to plug them right into power, but NOT via a Dimmer or switcher pack. Plug those INTO the wall or a power strip or extension cord, then use DMX to control those. Otherwise, well, you're gonna damage it. If you're going to plug your DMX fixtures into a dimmer pack, even if switched(on/off only, no variable voltage), you're going to have to wait for it to go through it's typical initialization cycle before you can use them. If you control them directly via DMX, you can let them run all night(so to speak), and then really activate them when you want to.
In my example, my Chauvet Q-Spot 150's use a 150-watt bulb, but I forget what type it is, but it's a type that you can't dim, so the fixture stays ON all night and day(so to speak), and it has a shutter to "turn off" the fixture. The shutter merely prevents light from leaving through the lens, but you can still tell the light is on because of light coming through the vents at the top and bottom halves of the enclosure. When I need to use the light, I open the shutter via the applicable DMX channel, set my X,Y and fine channels, as well as color, gobo and other features via the appropriate channels. When the scene is done, I have blackout sequences that snap the shutter closed, then cycle the fixture back to zero settings on the other channels
If you want to run certain fixtures in sound active only mode, then dimmer packs are the way to go, like your Revo Rave, which has a sound active only mode.
I think your next step is to really educate yourself on what you have, mainly from the perspective of how to best operate them.
If it was me, I'd learn to use DMX for the Roller Trons. As far as your light bars, that's up to you how you best need to run them, similarly with the LED Quest, Scorpion Laser and Revo Rave. Sticking these into sound active mode and then turning them on and off via dimmers in switched mode is a good way to go. But check this out:
I have light bars too. 8 ADJ Mega Bar 50's. I like these a lot. I only run them in DMX mode. If I want sound active, I can put them into sound active mode via DMX, control their sensitivity via another channel, and their brightness via the dimming channel.
As far as your non-DMX fixtures go, dimmer packs in switched mode(or switching or power packs) is the way to go. I have a Sunray III as well, so I know what that's all about. I haven't used it in a while though, but that's irrelevant. Your HAZER should NOT BE run off a dimmer or switcher under any circumstances. My hazer does use DMX, but that's also irrelevant. You can control your hazer via the remote that it comes with, either as a "set and forget" or you can keep the remote near you and control it as you want. IN my case, I manually control mine during shows. The reason is that hazers, foggers and other stuff like that take time to warm up, and they have mandatory duty cycles. If you power it off, it has to go though it's warm-up again.
Regarding the strobe specifically:
My LED light bars and panels and cans all support strobe functionality. It's nice to be able to adjust the strobe speed. I'm also sure you're not using it that much as well.
Mind your duty cycles if applicable and you'll be fine. Go read through your manuals and let your creativity get engaged a bit.