You can program scenes and then shut them off via using the blackout button.
Depending on how you make scenes, and what type of fixtures you use, and considering it's a DMX Operator, your options are somewhat limited.
If all you're doing is just shutting lights on and off, it seems a bit excessive to get dimmer packs and all sorts of other DMX capable fixtures if all you're doing is off and on, but either way, having the control options is nice.
So, without knowing more, I'd say learn to program the DMX Operator. It's not that hard, just have the manual and the unit in front of you and go slowly until you feel comfortable. Use the blackout to do your OFF's.
Thank you for the input. Just so I clarify what I would like to do, I have 2 Roller Trons, an LED Qyest, two LED Light Bars, a chavuet laser, line dancer, quartet, strobe, orbital, and sunray III. What I would like to do is be able to turn on certain fixtures at a time for certain effects and let them goto music. Roller Trons fans need to run all the time and be ready to switch lamp on, and I would like the Light bars and roller trons to at least sync color and patterns together to music. I like to run my effects in real time and turn on a couple things together just by turning on the device. Am I asking to much for what I have or should I add or switch componets.
Well, you CAN do this, but you've got to create scenes that cover every possible scenario you'd want, and then have a chart documenting what's on for which scene. But on the go, that might be too much to deal with, as its too easy to overlook something.
I'd say MyDMX by American DJ might be an option with or without a MIDI controller. It's a PC based software solution. While you can also make scenes you can name, you can also override the scenes using HTP or LTP to determine priorities. It's not much more than the DMX Operator.
While I haven't seen these yet, there are other Elation software offerings available I hear Compu Live by Elation might be a good option Maybe Compu Cue. I haven't used either. I could definately see Compu Show being used, but I think that would be too much money
Another alternative might be this older switching system ADJ used to make. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe they still make it. It was basically a remote controlled outlet bank that connected to a switch panel that let you turn on/off the power plugs.
Now, if you want to do things like color sync your roller trons(forgive me, I don't know nor care what they are and am not taking the time to enlighten myself on them), and I take i they are a DMX fixture that can work in master/slave mode, then if you expect color sync, you have TWO options: 1: Don't run them in DMX mode, run them in master/slave mode. This guarantees they work together in sync. 2: If thhey are DMX fixtures, and let's say they support sound active in DMX mode(some fixtrures don't do this), then there's now way to get them to sync up, so you'd probably need to go software to control them in sync, and not use sound active mode.
You could add power packs and dimmers as needed and where applicable and direct DMX control where you want it.
I think you got too much stuff and want too many fast options based on your needs and the controller you have. you still have options. For the most part, if you address things right, and use POWER packs or dimmer packs in SWITCHED mode(not dimming), such as the current DMX-DP20L's(made by Elation), you COULD do this. Plug everything into the packs, use the faders to bring stuff UP and DOWN. The only possibly downside is that you may need to use the shift button to get to other channels.
Keep this in mind. the DMX Operator supports 192 DMX channels. The scanner buttons access logical channels in groups of 16 consecutive channels. If you hit Scanner button 1, you have direct acces to channels 1-8 via the faders and when you hit shift you get channels 9-16. If you hit scanner 2, you get channels 17-32(and repeat). BUT, if you hit Scanner buttons 1 and 2(and more), Fader 1 will be bother channels 1 and 17(and maybe something else).
So, now my question is, do you have any dimmer and/or switcher packs? You're going to need some. Some of your fixtures are DMX, so you don't need to get these packs, but since you seem to want simple on/off operation, you might need to get enough anyways.
The dimmer packs support 2 outlets per channel, but you can you other stuff to get more plugs if you need to(say, a power strip). But, in general, this sounds like it would work for you, since I don't see you needing more than 2 lights on the same channel.
But, this is a hard one. You need to buy more stuff for sure, and if you don't need to buy dimmers for DMX fixtures, it might save you money, which could be used to get lighting software(MyDMX) and an inexpensive MIDI controller like the KORG nanokonrol.
So, you're ging to need to look at your options and bank account and decide what to do next.
Well I have returned the DMX controller per Elations recommendations and purchased a Stage Pak 1, this will give me on off options and control of a couple lights, now I just have to figure out haw to set them up as the directions are so vage.
Well, as long as it does what you need, no problem. And if Elation recommended it, then I won't argue. They know their stuff better than I do. I'm just an end user! That's why there's so many options out there, trying to address various niches.
My main concern is that systes like that don't grow very well. You've also got fixtures that ideally shouldn't be placed on a dimmer/power pack as well. I always try to see out 3-5 years and see if the gear is something that will really be useful to me down the road instead of stop-gap solutions.
So Chris, What your saying is I shound not hook up any dmx to the packs? I am really not knowledgeable enough in in any of this obviously, and I just wonder how I should hook up what I have. I have been using X10 outlets to turn on and off the lighting and am just trying to use the Stage Pak to make it easier and have Some control mainly with the Roller trons (so the fans run and do not have to warm up every time I want to activate them which takes about 45 seconds when powered on).
Non DMX are strobe, beacon, quartet, sunray III, haze machine, Line Dancer and orbital.
DMX are two LED light bars, two roller trons, LED Quest, Scorpion Laser, and Revo Rave.
If you want the fans on the Roller Scans to stay on, you need to plug them right into power, but NOT via a Dimmer or switcher pack. Plug those INTO the wall or a power strip or extension cord, then use DMX to control those. Otherwise, well, you're gonna damage it. If you're going to plug your DMX fixtures into a dimmer pack, even if switched(on/off only, no variable voltage), you're going to have to wait for it to go through it's typical initialization cycle before you can use them. If you control them directly via DMX, you can let them run all night(so to speak), and then really activate them when you want to.
In my example, my Chauvet Q-Spot 150's use a 150-watt bulb, but I forget what type it is, but it's a type that you can't dim, so the fixture stays ON all night and day(so to speak), and it has a shutter to "turn off" the fixture. The shutter merely prevents light from leaving through the lens, but you can still tell the light is on because of light coming through the vents at the top and bottom halves of the enclosure. When I need to use the light, I open the shutter via the applicable DMX channel, set my X,Y and fine channels, as well as color, gobo and other features via the appropriate channels. When the scene is done, I have blackout sequences that snap the shutter closed, then cycle the fixture back to zero settings on the other channels
If you want to run certain fixtures in sound active only mode, then dimmer packs are the way to go, like your Revo Rave, which has a sound active only mode.
I think your next step is to really educate yourself on what you have, mainly from the perspective of how to best operate them.
If it was me, I'd learn to use DMX for the Roller Trons. As far as your light bars, that's up to you how you best need to run them, similarly with the LED Quest, Scorpion Laser and Revo Rave. Sticking these into sound active mode and then turning them on and off via dimmers in switched mode is a good way to go. But check this out:
I have light bars too. 8 ADJ Mega Bar 50's. I like these a lot. I only run them in DMX mode. If I want sound active, I can put them into sound active mode via DMX, control their sensitivity via another channel, and their brightness via the dimming channel.
As far as your non-DMX fixtures go, dimmer packs in switched mode(or switching or power packs) is the way to go. I have a Sunray III as well, so I know what that's all about. I haven't used it in a while though, but that's irrelevant. Your HAZER should NOT BE run off a dimmer or switcher under any circumstances. My hazer does use DMX, but that's also irrelevant. You can control your hazer via the remote that it comes with, either as a "set and forget" or you can keep the remote near you and control it as you want. IN my case, I manually control mine during shows. The reason is that hazers, foggers and other stuff like that take time to warm up, and they have mandatory duty cycles. If you power it off, it has to go though it's warm-up again.
Regarding the strobe specifically: My LED light bars and panels and cans all support strobe functionality. It's nice to be able to adjust the strobe speed. I'm also sure you're not using it that much as well.
Mind your duty cycles if applicable and you'll be fine. Go read through your manuals and let your creativity get engaged a bit.
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .